In August last year, KARL MAYER launched the new MJ 92/1 F, bringing a new breeze to the lingerie sector. The JACQUARDTRONIC® LACE can create completely new textile surfaces, particularly thanks to Symm-Net, a patterning technique for producing lace with a filigree, extremely precise pattern and maximum symmetry of the design elements. As a result, Symm-Net articles come closer than ever before to the benchmark of Leavers lace.
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"In terms of appearance, we have already previously achieved 90% of the Leavers appearance and now we are even closer. The richness of effect, clarity and symmetry of the design of the MJ 92/1 F lace are unsurpassed."
The variety is also great. If the Symm-Net variants are combined with different multi-bar structures, the range of typical pattern styles that can be imitated can be extended considerably. Completely new designs are also possible.
In his latest work, Jamie Heather uses the potential of front-placed jacquard bars, clever, ground-breaking drafting techniques and typical Leavers yarns - such as fine, twisted cotton - to radically rethink the theme of JACQUARDTRONIC® lace. His creations show the brilliant design appearance of Symm-Net and at the same time pattern effects with a previously unattained complexity. Simultaneously, all conventional JACQUARDTRONIC® articles can be produced on the MJ 92/1 F without any mechanical modifications.
MJ 92/1 F
Jacquard bar front, compatibility back
The MJ 92/1 F offers differences compared to its B counterpart, which can prove to be advantages depending on the application. Generally speaking, handling on the machine is easier during patterning. Hardly any corrections need to be made to the jacquard when working in new patterns, typically something that is regularly required on machines with the Jacquard at the back.
The fact that the jacquard yarns run vertically into the jacquard bars is a key factor, making tension ranges greater and drafting easier.
In addition, the loose Jacquard tension also improves the look of the lace.
The F version scores further points when working clip patterns: the floating yarns are laid on the back of the fabric and straight. This results in an extremely clean fabric appearance, without any annoying clip ends showing as we clip on the back of the lace on an F-machine. If the clip patterning is done on standard jacquard construction, stripes can often be visible in the wales where the floating yarns lie. This effect can be significantly minimized with Symm-Net technology - an advantage that is particularly beneficial when clipping behind fine lace structures.
A special twist also makes it possible to create looks with strikingly dimensional liners – normally a specialty of the B variant. As the jacquard flattens the dimensionality of the lines on an F machine, the elastane is used on the front of the machine instead of the back and the lace is made effectively backwards. The liners are threaded at the very back of the machine and the finer yarns directly behind the jacquard. After finishing, the lace is turned and the backside becomes the selling face, allowing B goods to be produced on an F machine.
"All standard JACQUARDTRONIC® articles can also be produced on the MJ 92/1 F without any changes to the machine from the Symm Net set-up. This compatibility of the product portfolio is a real customer benefit!"
Crève-Cœur imitation with more variety
Using the possibilities offered by the MJ 92/1 F, Jamie Heather developed a series of lace designs in which he imitated the typical Leavers Crève Cœur ground.
When creating this ground structure, he used the regular pillar bar and a split-thread jacquard bar in addition to two ground guide bars for elastane at the back imitating the symmetry of the jacquard.
Thanks to Symm-Net drafting and the use of Leavers-style pattern yarns, the Crève-Cœur construction is strikingly clear and uniform.
Jamie Heather also based the style of the lace on the expected fashion trends for next year. "I developed traditional lace with a slightly abstract pattern for my MJ 92/1 F project. The motifs show small irregularities, a touch of a modern Leavers look," says the lace expert.
His lace project started in January 2024, and by June he had already produced 15 samples, each with Symm-Net technology and in conventional design, to illustrate the differences.
Further steps are already planned. Next, Jamie Heather wants to use cotton in the jacquard and experiment with a chemical lockstitch to prevent the all-too-common slippage issues. Rigid, fine, high-quality Chantilly fabrics for the outerwear sector are in the works.
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