In close pursuit of the Leavers look

New leavers-like lace articles from the MJ 92/1 F Learn more

In August last year, KARL MAYER launched the new MJ 92/1 F, bringing a new breezeto the lingerie sector. The JACQUARDTRONIC® LACE can create completely new textile surfaces, in particular thanks to Symm-Net, a patterning technique for producing lace with a filigree, extremely precise pattern and maximum symmetry of the design elements. As a result, Symm-Net articles come closer than ever before to the benchmark of Leavers lace.

"In terms of appearance, we have already achieved 90% of the Leavers model. The richness of effect, clarity and symmetry of the design of the MJ 92/1 F lace are unsurpassed."
Jamie Heather, lace expert at KARL MAYER

The variety is also great. If the Symm-Net variants are combined with different multi-bar structures, the range of typical pattern styles that can be imitated can be extended considerably. Completely new designs are also possible.

In his latest work, Jamie Heather uses the potential of front-placed jacquard bars, clever, ground-breaking drawing techniques and typical Leavers yarns - such as fine, twisted cotton - to radically rethink the theme of JACQUARDTRONIC® lace. His creations show the brilliant design appearance of Symm-Net and at the same time pattern effects with a previously unattained complexity. Simultaneously, all conventional JACQUARDTRONIC® articles can be produced on the MJ 92/1 F without any mechanical modifications.

MJ 92/1 F

Jacquard bar front, compatibility back

The MJ 92/1 F offers differences compared to its B counterpart, which can prove to be advantages depending on the application. Generally speaking, handling on the machine is easier during patterning. Hardly any corrections need to be made to the jacquard when working in.

In addition, the yarn runs vertically into the jacquard bars and can therefore be processed more loosely. This improves the look of the lace.

The F version scores further points when working clip patterns: the floating yarns are laid on the back of the fabric and straight. This results in an extremely clean fabric appearance, without any annoying clip ends. If the clip patterning is combined with standard jacquard lappings, stripes may form in the lanes of the floating yarns. This effect can be significantly minimized with Symm-Net technology - an advantage that is particularly beneficial for closed fabric grounds.

A special twist also makes it possible to create looks with strikingly emphasized linings - a specialty of the B variant. As the jacquard flattens the dimensionality, the elastane is used on the front of the machine instead of the back. The linings are threated in the rear guide bar and the finer yarns directly behind the jacquard. At the end, the finished fabric is turned, turning the back side into the front side. In this way, B goods can be produced on the F machine.

"All standard JACQUARDTRONIC® articles can also be produced on the MJ 92/1 F. This compatibility of the product portfolio is a real customer benefit!"
Sascha Müller, Product Owner Global Lace & Raschel at KARL MAYER

Crève Cœur imitation with more variety

Using the possibilities of the MJ 92/1 F, Jamie Heather developed a series of lace articles in which he imitated the typical Leavers Crève Cœur ground.

When realising the ground structure, he used the jacquard bar in addition to the ground guide bars to create a lively, complex ensemble of large and small-pore structures.
Each of the two split Jacquard bars was threaded separately. On the reverse side, an additional ground guide bar with elastane threading imitated the symmetry of the jacquard.
Thanks to Symm-Net, the design is strikingly clear and uniform.

Jamie Heather based the style of the lace on the expected fashion trend for next year. "I developed traditional lace with a slightly abstract pattern for my MJ 92/1 F project. The motifs show small irregularities, a touch of a modern Leavers look," says the lace expert.

His lace project started in January 2024, and by June he had already produced 15 samples, each with Symm-Net technology and in conventional design, to illustrate the differences.Further steps are already planned. Next, Jamie Heather wants to use cotton in the jacquard and works an open pattern with a chemical stitch stop to prevent the usual slippage effect. In addition, non-elastic fine Chantilly fabrics for the outerwear sector are in the works.

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