Cellulose fibres reimagined in warp knitting

The collaboration focusing on identifying new, efficient ways to process Lenzing’s TENCEL™ Lyocell and Modal fibers with Micro Technology, made from the natural material wood, sourced from certified or controlled sources ¹ and manufactured using a responsible production process with a low environmental impact ² , on warp knitting machines, whilst demonstrating their suitability for high-quality textile applications.

TENCEL™Lyocell and Modal fibers produced with Micro Technology are characterized by their fine titers which enable the production of finer yarns, resulting in smooth and consistent fabrics that deliver softness and lightness for enhanced comfort, whilst yielding superior drape and movement.

Cellulose fibers offer consistent fiber length uniformity, forming the basis for high mechanical performance. Despite this advantage, the production of warp-knitted fabrics from cellulose fibers presents significant technical challenges. To address this complexity, the two partners joined forces to develop a new innovation project; Lenzing contributing extensive expertise in fiber production and yarn development, including the downstream spinning process, whilst KARL MAYER complemented with many years of experience in warp beam production from staple fibers and their processing on high-performance warp knitting machines. The manufacturer's machines are renowned on the market for their maximum efficiency, reliability and quality.

Specifically, the choice fell on:

1. TENCEL™ Modal with Micro technology, Ne 60/1 ( Nm 100/1) Ring Compact – from Gebr. Otto GmbH + Co. KG,  89165 Dietenheim (Germany)

2. TENCEL™ Lyocell with Micro technology, Ne 60/1 ( Nm 100/1) Ring Compact – from Gebr. Otto GmbH + Co. KG,  89165 Dietenheim (Germany)

3. TENCEL™ Modal with Micro technology, Ne 60/1 ( Nm 100/1) SIRO Compact – from Inovafil - Fiação, S.A., 4770-583 Vila Nova de Famalicão (Portugal)

4. TENCEL™ Lyocell with Micro Technology, Ne 60/1 ( Nm 100/1) SIRO Compact – from Inovafil - Fiação, S.A., 4770-583 Vila Nova de Famalicão (Portugal)

The yarn material was warped to a high standard, particularly in terms of lint and used on a high-performance warp knitting machine in a gauge of E 28 with two guide bars. This resulted in three different articles for the clothing sector from each yarn: an open worked three-stitch tulle net, a close-knit fabric made counter-lapped open tricot lap and a fabric made from a counter-lapped atlas lap, also with a dense surface.

The results of the innovation project will be presented to the textile world during Premiere Vision, Paris, 3rd-5th February, introducing a capsule collection as a mix of applications across lingerie, innerwear and lifestyle pieces for everyday wear.

The Lenzing team will be at the Lenzing stand 6P30 to welcome guests, engage in discussions on all the latest innovations across the Lenzing portfolio, whilst exploring the new applications across the capsule.